It is widely known that visitors must be accompanied by a guide after they cross the boundary into Corcovado National Park, but Paraiso Verde is an exception to that rule. Approximately 20 years ago the property was not part of the park, but now the boundary has been extended and one must walk 1 hour past the Los Planes Ranger Station just to get to there. The property owner’s name is Alfredo and he has been living on the property for over 35 years. Long ago he brought in flowers and plants from all around Costa Rica to complete his garden. His hand-planted vegetation is now fully mature and Alfredo grows fruit and vegetables to sustain himself. Alfredo comes to Drake Bay every 3-5 months to purchase beans, rice, coffee and other staples, all of which has to be carried on his back to the property. He has a small solar system, but does not generate enough electricity to run appliances such as a refrigerator.

His 2 story home has a wrap-around porch on each of the levels that are filled with hammocks. The beautiful property can be admired for months, while incredible amounts of information about the natural world seems to be constantly shoved into your head. He receives very few visitors and loves company. Alfredo is probably the softest person that I have ever met. He has strong opinions, but is type of person that would rather fall over than step on an ant.

Other than his fascination with nature, Alfredo enjoys 60’s and 70’s classic rock. He has one room that is used as a shrine to the rock concerts of his youth. It’s amazing how many big-name artists have signed his memorabilia, ticket stubs, and posters. He knows all the words to almost every song of the era and the best part is that he doesn’t even speak English!

He’s also into crop circles. Yes, aliens. I personally never realized how frequently they are found before I visited Paraiso Verde. In addition to his rock memorabilia and countless nature guides plastered all over the walls, also has a place dedicated for the crop circles of the month.

Years could be spent at Paraiso Verde. Trails, waterfalls and swimming holes are just waiting for exploration. The property probably gets less than 20 guests per year and it’s located within the “best national park on Earth”, how much better could it get? Picking the mind of a man that has flourished within all that nature will require some Spanish speaking abilities, but the place speaks more than enough for itself. Alfredo is just an additional benefit.

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Most tour operators advertise this experience as a horse riding activity. I personally think that there are better ways to spend a day on horseback. This waterfall is a relatively easy trek on foot and visitors can simply be directed here without the need for a guide.

The jungle environment at the base of this huge waterfall combined with the experience of the journey is a pretty good way to spend the day. I have even heard many travelers claim that the Naguala experience was better than the tours that they paid for in other places across Costa Rica.

To experience the Los Planes Waterfall Hike, simply download the map and follow along with our instructions below.

From point (A) to point (B)
Choice of 20 minute walk or $6 taxi from the center of Drake Bay to a natural stream located in an area that is locally known as the “Bijagua”. The taxi will normally drop passengers at the top of the steep hill with a gravel road leading down to the stream.

From point (B) to point (C)
30 minute walk in the stream until it merges with a larger river (Agujitas River)

From point (C) to point (D)
The walk now travels against the current for approximately 45 minutes, or until the water becomes deep. From there, an obvious trail can be found on the left hand side of the river, which will guide you through the jungle for 15 minutes until you are looking downward at the mighty face of the Naguala waterfall.

The return hike is the same in reverse, although return taxi journeys are mostly too difficult to organize, so a 20 minute walk back into town will be necessary.

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Before I explain how, let me give you some of my personal history and what common horse tours in Costa Rica entail. Prior to moving to the Osa Peninsula, I spent 3 months exploring Costa Rica with a rental car. I went on horseback riding tours in La Fortuna, Monteverde and Tortuguero. During my 10 years living on the Osa Peninsula, I’m pretty sure that I have also experienced all of the horseback tours found in this area.

The normal Costa Rican horseback tour looks like this- The tourist meets with their guide and horses. The tour begins on a gravel road towards a jungle trail. Riders are guided a short distance into the jungle where the horses are left tied up. The group hikes a short distance until they reach a river or stream with a waterfall. A swim is usually encouraged and a snack is then offered. After returning for the horses, the tour continues on a gravel road to a family farm so that the tourists can see how local farmers live. If there is an ocean nearby a beach run may be offered.

This tour structure has been satisfying customers for as long as Costa Rica has had tourism. I too obviously enjoyed it or I would have stopped going on these tours years ago. My latest discovery is better in so many ways. I’ll first describe the downsides of other tour options, and then I’ll explain how our new adventure is structured.

1. Horses are most enjoyable when they are also useful. Only small children enjoy riding a horse in circles. To me, riding on a gravel road is not fun. There is normally little to no shade, and every time an automobile passes the group gets to experience the clouds of dust that trail behind them. Additionally, horses do not enjoy walking on gravel roads (nor through rocky streams). They can deal with the discomfort but I have recently found that this is why the horses always seem excited when they know that the tour is almost over. Sometimes it’s even necessary to fight the horses desire to run back home. I doubt that anyone wants to think that the horse was unhappy during their special adventure.

2. People say that they travel to Costa Rica to experience nature. Sadly, the gravel roads of Costa Rica are littered with dogs. Dogs chase off all wildlife except for birds. My point is that during normal tours, the horseback riding bit is the part where the least amount of wildlife can be discovered.

3. The family farm section of Costa Rican horseback tours is normally the part that gets the best reviews. I think that this is because people want to know how the horses live. So how can this experience be improved? That information will be revealed shortly.

I can proudly say that our newest tour option has provided us with yet another chance to offer what GringoCurt.com is known to produce- The maximum opportunity to experience the very best that Costa Rica has to offer.

Here is what we recommend:

At noon, a taxi will pick up the group and take them as far into the jungle as Drake Bay gravel roads go. There, the guide and horses are introduced and the adventure begins into the deepest jungles of Costa Rica.

I have spent a lot of time hiking through various jungles. Until I did this tour, I never realized how much I was missing. While walking on jungle trails it is absolutely necessary to watch where I put my feet. Not only to avoid stepping on venomous snakes, but also because I don’t want to trip over random vines or accidentally step in deep mud. I had never been riding on primary jungle trails before, and what I instantly noticed was that instead of paying so much attention to my feet, I was more easily able to enjoy the scenery as it passed me by. David Attenborough says that over 80% of rainforest life exists in the trees. It’s very difficult to pay attention to the canopy above while constantly looking at your feet.

On these trails, other humans are rarely experienced and there are no dogs. The jungle which surrounds the trail system is comparable to that found at the San Pedrillo Ranger Station. In fact, the trails of the San Pedrillo Ranger Station of Corcovado National Park are connected to the trails of this tour, and groups can horseback right up to the border of the park.

Even though 4-5 hours on a horse can cover a lot of ground, you would never be able cover all of the trails in one trip. This is an activity that can be experienced multiple times, while continuously finding new biodiversity. The experience is like traveling back in time, before the evolution of humans. Giant ancient trees covered in mosses, orchids and various other symbiotic organisms are found throughout the adventure. This activity also provides plenty of opportunity to visit waterfalls and the farm.

The family which cares for these horses lives a little closer to Drake Bay town, but the farm in which the horses reside is located deep in the jungle. There are a couple of shanty shacks on the property and about 20 horses. I have never experienced Costa Rican horses with owners who took such good care of them. They are happy, healthy, clean and bugless. The gate is left open on the farm- giving me the impression that they really like being there. With so many horses, you may even get the chance to observe young colts. The horses seem to love their owner as he is always greeted upon arrival- almost as if to say “Can we come too?!”

At the end of the ride, the tour returns to the beach closest to the gravel road’s end. From here, there is the option to run the horses along the beach, or perhaps drink a cold beer at a remote sunset bar. There is a perfect view of Cano Island and the colors can be breathtaking- whether you choose to watch the sunset from the bar, or from the deserted and romantic beach. Once the light show is over and dark approaches, a taxi will appear to take you directly back to your hotel.

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Rio Claro is approximately a 2 hour brisk walk along the Beach Hike from the Drake Bay village center. At this distance from the already small and nature-filled village of Drake Bay, there are no restaurants nor grocery stores. There is no connection to the local electricity grid. The solar power system at the Life for Life foundation powers a radio used to occasionally listen to soccer matches or music.

At Rio Claro you will be surrounded by primary lowland rainforest and a great opportunity to experience vast amounts of local wild life. From July 15th to December 15th the sea turtle conservation project has been saving thousands of babies each year, since the 1970’s. Rio Claro also has one of Costa Rica’s best surf waves. It’s is not a beginner wave, but for those who enjoy a long strong left, boards are usually available to rent.

All of this and I haven’t even mentioned the word kayak yet. The turtle project leader is named Ricardo (Or Clavito to his friends). He has no bank account and no savings. Any money handed to him is used to save turtles. Most of the funds for the project are earned through kayaking tours.

The tour begins at the river mouth and goes upstream to visit numerous waterfalls, rock jumps and swimming holes. The entire journey is like a step back into a time before humans. Doing the 2 hour tour provides enough time to see some really nice waterfalls but the best waterfalls require 3 hours.

The name “Rio Claro” translates to “Clear River” and that’s exactly what it is. Unless there has been a recent heavy rain, it is common to see fish such as large red snappers, and other river residents simply because it’s so easy to see the bottom. The river water has been carving into the volcanic rock foundation for millions of years. This has created a beauty that cannot accurately be described in detail. There are various types of fungus, moss, orchids and animals covering absolutely everything from the trees to the rocks. Life is literally everywhere.

Getting to Rio Claro by foot, along the “Beach Hike” is recommended for our energetic visitors but this activity can also be experienced by those who prefer more relaxing and less walking. We are happy to arrange boat transportation, snacks and lunches for your day in paradise.

There are other kayaking options offered in the village center but before describing why I would not recommend them, let’s describe the setting. The beach directly in front of the village of Drake Bay is called Playa Colorado. It is a large beach which, along with other beaches, makes up a small bay. This small bay has easy road access along its entire coastline. The small bay opens up into a much larger bay- the body of water which was named after Sir Francis Drake.

Beyond the small bay, there are numerous beaches, but the crashing waves often discourage kayakers from attempting to land on them. Thus, sea-kayaking from Drake Bay village usually involves struggling to round the first point, realizing you can’t land anywhere, and then turning back. The small bay in front of Drake village does include a river called the Rio Agujitas, but kayakers can only travel upstream for about 15 minutes before they are turned around due to shallow water.
It is my opinion that kayaks are only fun when they are useful as transportation. If there is no destination in mind, then why kayak? Thus, I wouldn’t give high praise to daytime kayaking tours found in the village center.

At night however, this changes. Night time kayaking from the village center is absolutely recommended provided that the conditions are good for experiencing bioluminescence. You can read about this magical experience on our biolumencence page.

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After about an hour and a half of trekking with your informative guide, the group will arrive at the best of 6 waterfalls in the area. After hiking through the jungle and experiencing the awesome bio-diversity, swimming in the cool water here is simply perfect- deep pools carved out over millions of years, surrounded by jungle and volcanic rock jumps. Understanding that few tourists go beyond “Sirena Ranger Station, Cano Island, and Day at the Beach”, you can probably paint your own picture of how unspoilt this spot is. The sounds of water crashing and jungle living from all directions is a truly meditative experience.

After the swim, a snack is offered and the group will take another 5 minute walk to where the stream joins the infamous Rio Claro (Clear River). Zip-up life jackets are provided and worn upside down with legs protruding through the arm holes. Picture the jacket’s head hole located between your legs and you’ve got the idea! This fashion statement has 2 functions: a floatation device; and protection for your bum and torso. It is always encouraged to go feet first but the life jacket’s protection is convenient in cases where you find yourself mesmerized by the passing jungle canopy above.

Eventually the ocean is upon you and you’ll find yourself on a spectacular surfing beach. The only sign of human life will be the living quarters of Ricardo, local turtle conservationist. Both he and his wife Mod, live together in a “Gilligan’s Island” paradise. The relaxed environment is great for a snack and coffee or tea.
 
Often, Ricardo will speak about his many years of effort in saving sea turtle nests from poaching and predation. The work he does requires much effort as it is a constant race to discover the eggs before dogs or poachers do. Too many beaches for only 1 Tico. Volunteer positions are available and over the years several very helpful visitors have participated in the project. However, since few people know about this stunning location, more are always needed. Sadly, the struggle to keep these ancient creatures around seems less and less hopeful.

After enjoying this scenic piece of paradise, the group walks the beach trail alongside approximately 10 other beautiful beaches. A trail has recently been opened from Caletas beach to accommodate 4×4 vehicles, so a taxi will collect you from here and return you to Drake Bay.
 
I’ve personally done the Rio Claro Floating tour more times than I can count, which is probably the best endorsement I can give it!

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