With the number of worldwide cases of COVID-19 rising exponentially every day, we have compiled the latest information and links for travelers that have reserved their vacations to Costa Rica in the coming weeks and months. Please contact us as soon as possible for cancellations, as last-minute refunds may not be possible.

MAJOR UPDATES:
From Tuesday the 24th of March, Foreign Residents and Refugees will lose their status in Costa Rica IF they leave the country. This measure is intended to discourage people from traveling due to health risks. The country is not intending to take you out of the residency process, it is only to keep you from spreading the virus. If you have residency or refugee status- stay in Costa Rica. There are visa and residency application extensions already in place.

Costa Rica has closed its borders to all foreigners and non-residents until at least April 12. For foreigners who entered the country on a tourist visa after Dec 17, all visas have been extended to May 17. Most flights to and from Costa Rica have been suspended, or will be suspended in the next couple of days. If you need to return to your home country, do so immediately. Check this list for airline specific information. Keep checking this blog for live updates.

Should We Cancel Our Trip?

The following information is designed to help you to make an informed decision about whether to cancel or postpone your trip to Costa Rica. Overall, Drake Bay remains a very safe location. This is due to the low density of population, relatively low levels of international tourism (less than 1% of the national total), and an abundance of clean water and food.

Having said that, current travel advice is to suspend ALL international travel that is not 100% essential. Special care should be taken if you are elderly or have a compromised immune system.

How Many Cases in Costa Rica?

Costa Rica has 231 confirmed cases, 6 of which are hospitalized. There are cases in all 7 provinces of Costa Rica. None have been confirmed in Drake Bay or the Osa at this point. 2 people have died.

Are There Travel Restrictions?

Costa Rica has closed its borders to all foreigners and non-residents. The closure is expected to last until at least April 12th.

From Tuesday the 24th of March, Foreign Residents and Refugees will lose their status in Costa Rica IF they leave the country. This measure is intended to keep people from traveling due to health risks. It is not intended as a punitive measure. If you have residency or refugee status- stay in Costa Rica. There are visa and residency application extensions already in place.

Starting on Monday the 23rd, all National Parks and protected areas will close for visitation. We are awaiting further information regarding refunds and postponements for pre-reserved tickets with the Ministry of Environment.

All bars and nightclubs have been ordered to close, but this does not affect restaurants. All schools and universities have been closed until at least April 4th. Large public events have been canceled. And all beaches are closed to the public.

Panama has closed its borders to all non-residents. If you are planning to transit through Panama, you may have to change or cancel your flights. Also, foreigners in Costa Rica who need to do “border runs” to renew visas should be aware that the General Directorate of Migration has automatically extended tourist visas to anyone who entered the country after December 17, 2019. You can legally remain in Costa Rica until May 17, 2020. Stay tuned for updates.

Citizens returning to Costa Rica from overseas will now face a 14-day mandatory self-isolation.

How to Stay Safe in Costa Rica

If you are traveling in Costa Rica, you should consider the following measures. Although Drake Bay is very isolated and currently has a very low risk of contact with the virus, these measures may make you feel more comfortable on your trip.

What if I get Sick in Costa Rica?

The Public Health system in Costa Rica is both excellent and cheap. Those on a tourist visa to Costa Rica may visit a clinic or hospital free of charge in any emergency. Having said that, we encourage people not to panic at the slightest sneeze and overwhelm our wonderful system.

Those displaying Coronavirus Symptoms will be tested and treated free of charge. This includes uninsured people and foreign tourists.

In non-emergency situations, check with your travel insurance provider to see what is and isn’t covered. On the off chance that you have to pay out of pocket for medical expenses, you should expect 30-70% less than costs in the USA.

For non-emergency situations, an information hotline has been set up and can be reached by calling 1322. In an emergency, please call 911.

What About Cancelled Flights?

Most flights to and from Costa Rica have been suspended, or will be suspended in the next couple of days. If you need to return to your home country, do so immediately. Check this list for airline specific information.

Those planning to enter Costa Rica from Continental Europe, the United Kingdom, and Ireland cannot travel via the United States. Check with your airline for updates on flight cancellations.

Some domestic flights in the USA have been canceled. Check with your airline to see if you may need to change your itinerary.

Travelers from Australia and New Zealand should check with their airline, as several long haul flights to the USA, such as Sydney-Los Angeles, have been suspended or reduced.

Use an Online Flight Checker and or speak to your airline directly

What About Returning Home?

Some travelers may face additional screenings or even quarantines when returning to their home countries.

Canada has implemented 14-day quarantines/self-isolation for ALL returning travelers. These may be mandatory for government employees and health workers. Check with your local health authority. In addition, if you have returned via China, Iran or Italy, you must register with the public health authority less than 24 hours after your arrival in Canada. In a new update, the border between the USA and Canada has been closed to all non-essential travel. Stay tuned for more details.

US Citizens will be asked to self-isolate for 14 days ONLY if they have been to a high-risk area (Iran, China, South Korea, Malaysia, and Europe, including the UK and Ireland).

Returning Australian and New Zealand travelers will face additional screenings and 14-day self-isolation if returning via China, Korea, Iran or Italy.

Government Travel Advice Websites:

Australia
United States
Canada
United Kingdom

What Are the GringoCurt.com Cancellation Policies?

Starting on Monday the 23rd, all National Parks and protected areas will close for visitation. We are awaiting further information regarding refunds and postponements for pre-reserved tickets with the Ministry of Environment. Please sit tight, as it may take us some time to receive and process refunds.

You can find our full cancellation policy on our Questions and Answers Page. We will endeavor to stick to this policy as things progress, but if we have a high volume of cancellations, there may be a delay in receiving your refund. We would also like to extend an additional offer for those who are postponing their trips for future months. Wherever possible, we will carry over deposits for postponed itineraries.

Please contact us if you have any concerns or questions about your trip to Drake Bay, Costa Rica, due to the Coronavirus. We will endeavor to keep this page up to date daily. Also, check out the below video for general scientific information about the virus and what scientists are doing to develop solutions.

The post Coronavirus Costa Rica, Travel Updates appeared first on Gringo Curt.

Curt and I have always loved the colorful birds in the Drake Bay area. But one year ago, somewhat inspired by the comedy film “The Big Year”, we began recording the species that we saw. To make our Big Year list even more special to us, we decided to only count the species that we saw together. This was partially inspired by a visit from my Aunt and Uncle in June of 2017. They are both passionate about travel and wildlife and really enjoy sharing birding experiences together.

I say “partially inspired” because a not insignificant part was due to the fact that our last functioning camera went kaput this year, and we wanted to be as accurate as possible with our identifications. So it seemed like 2 pairs of eyeballs would be the best way to go.

But I digress.

To give people some inspiration, we have compiled our Big Green Year list into a video. We have used a combination of our own photographs, photographs from the amazing citizen science website iNaturalist, and information from our well-loved copy of The Birds of Costa Rica.

I wanted to write this blog about our Green Big Year for two reasons: the first is that we have received overwhelming feedback from our bird videos on YouTube. Secondly, we recently learned about the environmental concerns that surround “The Big Year” birding competition.

If you haven’t heard of a Big Year, very briefly, it is a competition that involves recording bird sightings for one entire calendar year. You may identify the bird either by sight, or by call alone. Ideally you will get a photo or recording of the bird, but it is not 100% required. The birds must not be captive birds and the American Birding Association asks you to “refrain” from breaking into someone else’s property in order to view birds. No kidding.

The current record for North America is 836 species.

For our story, we did not actually officially register for the competition, and we certainly didn’t go running around and jumping over people’s garden fences. In reality, we just recorded the birds we saw in the course of our normal activities. So, we have now clocked a total of 185 species in 12 months. To be fair, living in Drake Bay, our normal activities are quite different than for those living outside the jungle. Our region is surrounded by primary rainforest, mangroves, rivers and beaches. I even saw a new species last week on a trip to the bank.

In the Osa Peninsula of Costa Rica alone, there are upwards of 500 species of birds. In a 25×35 mile area. That means that without even taking one flight, you could get yourself within spitting distance of the record.

This fact struck us as important because although the Jack Black film is a comedy, birder’s can be wonderfully comical in real life. When Curt had his amazing banana bird feeder at the restaurant, we were frequently awoken to the sounds of birders clambering over our closed front gate. To be met with the phrase “Oh, it’s ok, we’re just looking at the birds, are you open?”

This is a video from the restaurant we had from 2010 to 2018….

Essentially, many birders are willing to go to incredible lengths to spot that one elusive species. Apparently, the average “Big Year” contestant spends upwards of $100,000 on their adventure. Whizzing all over the USA by plane at breakneck speed.

We wanted to share our Green Big Year story to show people that they don’t have to be millionaires to participate in this wonderful and truly addictive pastime. You just have to choose your location correctly. With the possibility of 500 species in one peninsula, and over 1000 in Costa Rica, it is hard to go past Drake Bay, for your Big Year headquarters. Costa Rica itself is about the size of West Virginia, and the Osa Peninsula is less than half the size of Rhode Island. Not much need here for expensive flights.

Apart from reducing the costs associated with birding, reducing your environmental impact is of great concern. In one report, a Big Year competitor had a footprint of 142,000 tonnes of carbon from flights and car trips alone. The average person in the United States has a footprint of 16.5 tonnes. The average person in Costa Rica? 1.6.

Many people in the last few years have been advocating for Green Big Years. Cycling all over the continental USA, gaining sponsorship from local companies and raising money for bird conservation. Their efforts have been amazing, with one birder raising $45,000 for non-profit organizations. But what if you love birds, and the concept of maintaining a habitable planet, but are not all that keen on cycling for 17,000 miles? Drake Bay could be the answer.

But, let’s get back to the birds!

Over the course of the year, we have watched amazing bird species in various habitats.

• We have done several trips into the Sierpe Mangroves (the largest wetland system in the world).
• We have done hikes into the primary jungles around our house, and Corcovado National Park.
• We have have sat on our patio and watching the hummingbirds, flycatchers, and tanagers in our garden.
• We have had picnics by rivers and waterfalls.
• We have watched the sandpipers manically run about on pristine beaches, and the Macaws munch on Beach Almonds.
• We have woken up to 100s of Red Lored Parrots scattering from the trees.
• We have watched Great Frigatebirds, Boobies and Shearwaters, soar around the boat on whale and dolphin adventures.
• We have even identified some birds that were not previously known to be in the area such as the Green-breasted Mango and Black-Crowned Night Heron.
• We haven’t taken a single flight.

One of the truly great things about our Big Green Year experience, was being able to share our different interests and priorities. It may (or may not) surprise you to learn that competitive birding in any given year is between 80 and 99% male dominated. On the other hand, citizen science projects, conservation volunteers, and birding organizations are approximately 70% women.

That’s not to say that I haven’t loved counting all the bird species we have seen. It is very addictive. But this Big Green Year has been great for us as a couple. We have been able to indulge an activity that involves relaxation, competition, conservation, and adventure combined.

We get excited every time we see a new bird or a new behavior. In a location such as this, many of our species have not been widely studied so we often discover information that cannot be found online. Recently we observed both the male and female Cherrie’s Tanager feeding their babies in the nest. This is the first time we have seen the dad participate actively in feeding. So cool. We have also learned a lot about bird conservation, evolution, and the importance of birds in various eco-systems.

You can download our free bird identification field guides using the buttons below. They were extremely helpful in making quick identifications before the subjects flew off. Don’t’ hesitate to contact us if you have any ideas for a birding trip in Drake Bay.

The post The Green Big Year Costa Rica: A Couple of Birders appeared first on Gringo Curt.

So, let’s break it down with all the things you need to cross a land border, how to get there, and how much it will cost you.

How Long Does a Tourist Visa Last?

For most Central American Countries, including Costa Rica, a tourist visa is 90 days (approximately 3 months). For Panama, the maximum is 6 months/180 days. For most nationalities, the visa itself does not cost anything, and you will not need to apply beforehand. However, “conditions apply” when you arrive at a border.

If you are from Africa, Asia, The Middle East, or Latin America: check with your consulate or embassy to see if you will need to pre-apply for a Costa Rican Visa. Here is a basic list of countries with visa restrictions.

Tickets for Onward Travel

When entering Costa Rica, you will often need proof that you have a ticket leaving the country within 3 months of entry. In most cases, a pre-paid bus ticket from one country to another will work. However, recently we have come up against border officials that have asked specifically for flight confirmations back to our home countries. And at Paso Canoas they now have the ability to check the validity of your ticket.

So, this is how you can be the most prepared.

To enter Costa Rica there are 4 options depending on the mood of the border guard:

This basic principle also applies to entering any other Central American country. They recently became particularly strict in Panama

You can easily purchase Tica Bus tickets online for approximately $40. Unfortunately they are non refundable nor transferable, so you will be out of pocket with this option if you weren’t planning on using the tickets.

Flights can be more complex, especially if you don’t actually need to fly from Costa Rica, because you were planning to fly home from Colombia… or wherever else you may be traveling. In this case, the best thing to do is find a website or airline that offers “On Hold” tickets. This means you get an e-ticket with a reservation number, but you don’t actually pay for the ticket and can cancel it as soon as you get through the border nonsense. Spirit Airlines used to offer refundable fares, but this is no longer available. If any of our readers find fully refundable fares, we would love to add them to our links.

At the main Costa Rica/Panama border (Paso Canoas), you can show these tickets on your phone, but be prepared to print them out at a nearby internet cafe if they ask.

Proof of Money

This is an easy one. You need to show that you have at least $300 or $100 for every month that you are in the country. Proof of this can be in cash, or your internet banking screen on your phone, laptop, or as a print out. Make sure you have the credit card or bank card that is associated with the account.

How Long Before Re-Entry?

In theory, you need to be out of Costa Rica for 3 days before they will allow you to re-enter. In our experience, it is usually more like 3-5 hours. The border guards change shifts at 2pm at Paso Canoas, which is good to know, for reasons that may become clear to you. If you are planning on being in Costa Rica for more than 3 months and need to make a “border run” to renew your tourist visa, factor in at least one night away.

In the case that you have over-stayed your visa, there are a few things that can happen:

Basically, just don’t overstay your visa. It’s not worth it.

Exit Taxes

Costa Rica has an $8 exit tax. You will need to pay this before you get you passport stamped. At the Costa Rica/Panama border of Pasa Canoas, the tax payment kiosk is located across the road from the Costa Rican border office. It’s bright yellow, and it’s next to a fried chicken shop. Yes. Don’t be surprised if your border crossing includes giving $8 to a person in a hole in the wall, or a random van. Don’t panic. See the our Paso Canoas Map below for the exact location.

Most international flights now include the exit tax, so this only applies to those exiting Costa Rica via land borders.

Where to Go in Paso Canoas

The Paso Canoas border is notoriously confusing. The first time I went there, I accidentally wandered into Panama without getting a stamp! Below you can find our custom Google map with all of the important spots highlighted and photographed.

How to Get to Pasa Canoas

Paso Canoas is the border we visit most frequently, and is the main land border between Costa Rica and Panama. To get to Paso Canoas from Drake Bay, there are 3 options via public transport:

1) Take the 7.15am boat from Drake to Sierpe ($15), then a collectivo taxi to Palmar Norte ($5), then the 9.30am Tracopa bus to Ciudad Nielly ($3), Then a collectivo taxi to the border ($2)

Total Cost: $25 pp
Total Time: 4-5 hours

2) Take the 4am mini bus from Drake Bay going towards La Palma ($6). Ask them to drop you at Rincon, which is basically just the corner where the road changes from gravel to highway. Wait here for the bus going to Ciudad Neilly at approximately 6.10am ($6). Take a collectivo taxi to the border ($2)

Total Cost: $14 pp
Total Time: 6 hours

3) Take the 4am mini bus from Drake Bay going to La Palma ($6). Take the 9.20am bus from the same stop, right in front of the bakery, to Puerto Jimenez ($2). Take the 11.30am Ferry to Golfito ($6). Take a collectivo taxi to Paso Canoas ($10)

Total Cost: $24
Total Time: 8.5 hours

An important thing to note is that the mini bus from Drake Bay to La Palma is not particularly reliable. Call the driver directly the day before you leave to make sure the service is running.

To get to Paso Canoas from other destinations in Costa Rica, you will likely also have to pass through Palmar Norte and Ciudad Neilly. Make use of the links below.

Where to Stay if you Get Stuck

Costa Rican public transport is famous for being the most unreliable in Central America. And from our experience, and the experiences of almost everyone we know, border runs never go exactly to plan. If you do get stuck at any point on your journey, we can recommend the following relatively cheap rooms:

Paso Canoas- Cabinas Romy:
Ask for a room with hot water showers. They also have Air con and decent wifi. $40 for 2 people.
Palmar Norte- Cabinas Romary:
A truly lovely family. They have helped us out multiple times over the years. All rooms have air con, cable tv, and wifi. The hot showers don’t work, but the beds are comfy and they are flexible with check out times. $20 for one person.
Puerto Jimenez- Cabinas Jimenez:
The owners are old friends, and they have very comfortable rooms right on the water. Air Con, Wifi, and even a pool. From $50 per night.
Ciudad Neilly- Hotel Diamante:
Not the most comfortable place in the world, but they do have WiFi and Air Con. The advantage of this place is that you are next door to cheap food, and across the road from the bus terminal. So you can get up early and get the hell out of Neilly.
La Palma- Soda La Palma:
Basic rooms for $15 per person. Do try your best not to get stuck here though, as La Palma is the only place on this list that does not have an ATM in town.

The Final Checklist

Although this blog is specifically about the border between Costa Rica and Panama, the following basic checklist applies to almost every land border in Central America. Although they may not always ask, it is better to be safe than stuck at an ugly dusty border!

We wish you luck with your future border crossing in Costa Rica and beyond. We welcome your feedback via email, WhatsApp, or Facebook for anything we are missing or any new updates.

The post Costa Rica Border Crossings: Ultimate Guide appeared first on Gringo Curt.

This seemingly inconsequential creature was one of the first of the even-toed ungulates. A group of animals which includes cows, deer, sheep, goats and hippos. Little did he know, he was eventually to evolve into the largest animal to ever live on earth.

What are the closest living relatives of Whales & Dolphins? And how do we know?

All Whales and Dolphins are a member of the Even-toed Ungulates or Artiodactyla. The groups closest living relatives are Hippos, sharing an ancestor approximately 47 million years ago. Once upon time, it was thought that Whales and Dolphins were closely related to extinct land-dwelling carnivores. Mainly based on the structure of their teeth.

However, we now know that they are more closely related to animals like deer and goats. In the late 1990’s DNA studies were performed that showed surprising similarities between these animals. Then, in 2001 a stunning fossil discovery gave us even more proof. 2 known species of cetacean ancestor (Pakecetus and Protocetus) were discovered to have the same structure of ankle bone as the even-toed ungulates. A unique characteristic, which placed them firmly within the group.

What does the timeline of Whale and Dolphin evolution look like?

Of course, the evolution of whales and dolphins (and indeed all life) is not a straight line. It is easier to think about as a many-branched tree or and interconnected network of rivers and streams. Some ancestors of modern whales and dolphins would have lived at the same time as each other, and likely interbred between species. As many dolphins continue to do today.

Taking a look at this info-graphic, we can see the main species and groups of species that we know about, and the ranges of time during which they lived. You can click on the images to find out more about individual species too.

What are the main features of Whales & Dolphins and when did they evolve?

One of the first interesting adaptations to have evolved in Cetacean ancestors was a thickened piece of bone with the ear. This characteristic helps whales and dolphins to hear underwater, and it was thought to be unique to fully-aquatic cetaceans.

Over time however, fossils of a little hoofed animal called Indohyus began popping up in India and they were discovered to have the same adaptation. This tiny animal lived between 53 million and 41 million years ago and was thought to wade around in shallow waters, looking for food.

Another interesting adaptation crops up around 47 million years ago. Ambulocetus (which means walking whale) had eyes positioned on the top of it’s head. This suggested that they behaved like crocodiles, wading in shallow waters with their eyes peeking above the water, ready to pounce on land animals.

Additionally, it possessed very large paddle-like feet and would have swum around by flexing it’s spine and using it’s feet to propel itself. A movement that could be described as half-way between a doggy paddle and the more graceful movements of modern cetaceans. In later species, the pelvis would become less and less connected to the spine, allowing for even more flexibility in the water.

Protocetus, who lived between 47 and 37 million years ago also had adapted a nasal opening that was much father back on it’s head. A characteristic that would eventually evolve into the classic blowhole. Fossil evidence suggests that these animals would have spent much of their time in the water, but could come up onto land to mate and give birth. Similar to the lifestyle of modern seals.

Approximately 40 million years ago a new group of cetacean appeared which did not, and indeed could not come onto land. Basilosaurus could grow up to 17 meters long and had an almost snake-like body. They had very tiny back “legs” which were essentially useless as they did not attach to the rest of the skeleton. Their front “legs” were now completely encased in a flipper and they may also have had tail flukes. They are seen as the first truly aquatic cetaceans. They even gave birth in the water, with the babies emerging tail first, so as not to drown.

The last major split of whales and dolphins was between the modern groups of toothed whales and baleen whales. This huge difference in feeding apparatus was thought to have occurred between 33 and 36 million years ago. Also at this time, the ability to use echolocation had begun among toothed whales and dolphins. It could be that this echo-locating adaptation evolved as a distinct advantage for dolphins and toothed whales that hunt individual prey. As opposed to Baleen Whales, who do not have this ability and catch huge mouthfuls of small prey at once.

What is the physical evidence of Whale and Dolphin Evolution, and where was it found?

Take a look at this interactive map, which shows a small selection of fossil finds of the most ancient whale and dolphin ancestors. As you can see, the first cetaceans and cetacean ancestors were found in India and Pakistan. By about 40 million years ago however, cetaceans such as Basilosaurus were living all around the world.

You can click on each point to see what species it belongs to, and when the animal lived. If you would like to find out more you can visit The Paleobiology Database.

What caused the evolution of Whales and Dolphins?

This is definitely a complicated question. And the answer is: we don’t really know. What we do know is that early cetaceans were slowly adapting from a land-based diet to and ocean-based diet. This suggests that their may have been more food available in the water; or perhaps less competition for that food.

It is also possible that there were fewer predators in the water at that time, and early cetaceans were keeping themselves safe from land-based carnivores. This could have been due to the relatively recent mass extinction (the one that wiped out the dinosaurs), which left ecological niches available for mammals to fill.

Another reason that scientists have considered for the evolution and diversity of whales is based on climate and geology. Over the course of cetacean evolutionary history, the oceans and shallow seas of earth were undergoing a series of transformations. Some areas of water opening up, and others closing. This could have caused evolutionary pressure on cetaceans to adapt to their changing environments.

In conclusion, we love whales and dolphins!

No matter what the actual reason is for whales and dolphins to have evolved, we are very very happy that they did. We think that understanding a little more about how these spectacular animals came to be, gives us a deeper appreciation for how truly amazing they are.

Think about that little cat-sized deer way back at the beginning of our story. That thing is related to a blue whale. In fact, modern deer and the blue whale share an ancestor at around the same time as humans share an ancestor with squirrel monkeys. Yep, they are that close!

If you want to find out more about whale evolution, check out this fantastic video below, by one of our favorite natural history YouTubers Ben G Thomas. It was an inspiration for this massive blog project, so we encourage you to subscribe.

The post The Story of Whale and Dolphin Evolution appeared first on Gringo Curt.

Here in Drake Bay, we see less than 2% of that number. Nevertheless, our most popular attractions: Corcovado National Park and Cano Island, are administered by the government ministry of environment (MINAE). And due to strict environmental regulations, there are a limited number of people that can visit each day. You must have a pre-reserved pass, and you must have a local guide.

At GringoCurt.com, we support these regulations, as we do not want to see these spectacular ecosystems being overwhelmed by tourists. See Manual Antonio for an example of this.

However, we want all nature lovers to have the opportunity to visit these amazing places. So, for travelers who are planning to visit Drake Bay or the Osa Peninsula in general, we recommend booking for high season as early as possible so you don’t miss out.
For both Corcovado and Cano Island, it is possible to confirm your spot 3 months in advance. And the best guides can be booked out up to 4 months out. Thus, we recommend booking these activities in September, October or November, to have the best opportunities for December-March.

Other trips that you should consider booking far in advance are Whale and Dolphin adventures and Fishing Charters. In Drake Bay, there are very limited boat captains and guides that have true experience with these trips. In fact, there are only 2 operations that we trust for either of these things. They have decades of experience in the region, and can provide truly unforgettable adventures. They have both taken out National Geographic and the BBC. It’s not something you can just book one day in advance in December!

As far as accommodation in Drake Bay, the high season can also present problems for last minute travelers. Although there are a wide variety of hotels, cabinas, B&B’s and hostels in the region, most establishments are small. There are no high-rise Hiltons in sight. Personally, we love this. But it does mean you have to be a bit more organized than you might ordinarily be when it comes to booking accommodation. 2-3 months before December, January or February is a decent estimate. Especially if you have specific requirements: such as proximity to the main village, air conditioning and/or hot water showers.

So, how do you book?

For accommodation and other activities, you can also use a travel agent or local hotel. In our opinion, the only way to ensure you receive the best option for you is to speak to someone who lives in the area. Travel books go out of date very quickly for this region. And even people in San Jose have limited practical knowledge of the Osa Peninsula. We strive to keep our Find a Hotel page completely up to date, so you can choose your accommodation based on TripAvisor reviews, location, and facilities. You can also take a look at AirBnB, which is becoming increasingly popular in our area.

You can find some convenient links in this post that will make booking your dream adventure to Costa Rica much more pleasant.
Our website is designed so that you can do all the research yourself and book everything independently. Or, you can contact us and we can put everything together for you. If you want to really relax into things, you can even book a complete adventure package that includes accommodation, transfers to and from Drake Bay, and all of your tours and activities.

The bottom line is, that high season (December-March) can fill up quickly. We don’t want anyone to miss out on experiencing the incredible place that we call home.

The post Booking for High Season in Costa Rica appeared first on Gringo Curt.

Backpacks

Where we live in Drake Bay, and in many other remote locations of Costa Rica, the roads are unsealed and we have no sidewalks. Because of this, we definitely do not recommend that you use a “wheely” case for your luggage. Most guests only need to watch the boat arrivals in Drake Bay for about 5 minutes to understand why. Have you ever seen someone try to wheel a giant suitcase on gravel, sand, or clay? It’s one of those things that’s funny as long as it’s not happening to you.

We have owned a huge variety of backpacks over the years, but there is one brand that really stands up to the tropical torture test. Charlotte first came across the brand while she was volunteering at a sea turtle conservation project in Drake Bay. The Australian company is highly invested in marine turtle conservation, and donated some backpacks for the project.

Almost 4 years later, these things have been through the ringer. Salt, sand, monsoonal rain, humidity. They have also been used by the rotating staff of 18-25 year old volunteers, which may have actually been harder on them than the humidity! The project still uses them, and they look brand new.

They are made with “slash proof” fabric, and come with lockable zippers, so they are really secure for public transport and dorms. The project uses a large 30L pack and smaller day packs for sea turtle patrols. Note that they are not waterproof, so you will need a good waterproof bag for day trips.

Waterproof Gear

When you live in the tropics, especially in the remote areas of Costa Rica like Drake Bay, you quickly become obsessed with waterproof containers. Even outside of rainy season, the ambient humidity will fry your electronics, make your clothes moldy, and fog up your camera lens.

Almost everyone we know in Drake Bay hoards Tupperware, waterproof cases and dry bags. For locals, it doesn’t even matter what they look like. I’ve seen 50 year old men walking around with barbie pink phone cases and showing them off. “This is a really good case, very waterproof!” It’s function over fashion.

Like most people, these types of items take up half of our house. Having said that, there are 3 items that we use the most frequently. A 20L dry bag with good straps, a small Pelican case, and a floating phone pouch. (and yes, the phone pouch happens to be barbie pink!)

There are plenty of dry bags on the market that can be placed inside other backpacks, but we like the ones with proper backpack straps, as they are great for day trips. You can easily hike with them, and you won’t get your good luggage items wet when you go on tours.

The small Pelican case is just the right size for a smartphone, passport, money and credit card. We pretty much use it everyday. Actually, we have about 4, one of which Curt has had for about 10 years. The floating phone pouch we probably use the least often, but the good thing about it is that you can still use the phone and touchscreen, while keeping it protected. Charlotte likes to take it with her so she can listen to music on the boat to Sierpe.

As far as keeping yourself dry, a good Gortex waterproof jacket is a must for your packing list. There are all kinds of good brands out there, but we suggest googling “fishermen’s waterproof jackets” to find the best ones. Just make sure you don’t put them in the washing machine, as it will often strip the waterproof coating and you’ll end up wet and sweaty at the same time.

Last but not least, we also recommend throwing a plastic bag or two into your pack for emergencies or other odds and ends. There is a cool origami tutorial that shows you how to fold ordinary shopping bags into neat little squares, so they are easy to throw in your day pack. It also stops you from accumulating single-use plastic when you go to the store.

A Note About Product Links: We will never promote products that we have not used personally throughout the 10 years we have been living in the Osa. They pass the tropical torture test and are useful to put in your pack.

The post Packing for Costa Rica- Luggage & Waterproof Gear appeared first on Gringo Curt.

Footwear

This is the number one question we get asked about packing for Costa Rica. While many websites will recommend big hiking boots, down here in the Osa Peninsula they are really not needed. In fact, the vast majority of people that bring hiking boots to Drake Bay regret it. This is because not only are they heavy, but they are very likely to get wet, not dry properly, and then get moldy and even heavier.

To do any activity in Drake Bay (excepting night hikes), a sturdy pair of sandals or Crocs worn with socks are your best bet for footwear. If any of our readers have already met Curt, you would be forgiven for wondering if he has shares in Crocs (or indeed socks). But we can assure you that this is what he wears every day.

To be sure, socks and sandals are not the most fashionable look. But there is sound logic behind it. None of the trails in the Drake Bay region require big hiking boots. In fact, we cannot think of anywhere in Costa Rica where you would need them. Additionally, there are often river crossings and boat landings with no dock. Large heavy boots are cumbersome to remove all the time, and are a total nightmare if they get soaked through.

The best sandals to get are those that strap securely to your feet, so that you can walk up and down hills and through rivers with ease. The reason for the socks is that if you are walking on sand and then get your feet wet, the sand will cut your feet like glass. Sand has extremely hard particles in it and the socks will protect your feet from rubbing against the straps.

A small caveat: If you have any kind of ankle problems, you may need to go for something with ankle support instead. Also, most night tours provide rubber boots, but do check with your tour operator in case you need to bring covered shoes.

Water and Camelbaks

Depending on the region of Costa Rica you are in, the tap water may or may not be drinkable. Here in Drake Bay, we do not recommend drinking the water that is connected to the “grid”. Properties and hotels that have their own wells or spring water are often safe to drink from the tap, but please check with your hotel first. We don’t encourage people to buy single use bottled water, but luckily most hotels will provide free filtered water if they do not have drinkable tap water.

On tours and activities we highly recommend that guests bring plenty of water in a reusable bottle or camelbak. Camelbaks are great because they can hold a large quantity of water. They also distribute the weight of the water across your back, so they are much easier to carry than large bottles.

Another advantage of the camelbak it easy access. They have a drinking tube that can be utilized while you are hiking without removing your day pack. If you are out on the ocean a lot (like we are), they also eliminate the “oh no I just tipped water down my front” incident.

If you decide on a camelbak, do tip it upside down and give it a bit of a shake before you put it in your pack, to check that the lid has been closed properly. We speak from experience on this one!

Fun in the Ocean

As mentioned, we love getting out on the ocean. In fact, the offshore Whale and Dolphin trip in Drake Bay is literally our favorite thing on planet earth. We have a variety of different gear for snorkeling and ocean adventures but two things that travelers may consider bringing to Costa Rica are: a snorkel mask and fins, and an inflatable life jacket.

In the Osa Peninsula we are lucky to be home to the best snorkeling in the country- Cano Island. However, there are numerous other coastal snorkeling spots in the region (and indeed throughout the country), which can be experienced independently. While ocean tours include all gear, there is no reliable place to rent equipment in Drake.

We recommend a mask that has black sides, which will reduce glare from the sun. Unless you are diving, make sure that your snorkel is rigid. Diving snorkels are more bendy and made to wrap around your diving gear, but they are horrible for snorkeling as they will flop around and fill up with water.

As far as fins, more rigid fitted fins are the most durable. Adjustable fins often have weak straps which can break or come loose. Curt has had his pair of Volts for literally 25 years. Today, they are made under the brand name TYR. If you do prefer an adjustable set, Charlotte also has a TYR kit, which is really cool because it comes with it’s own compact bag and the snorkel is very easy to clear.

We also love our inflatable life jackets because at Cano Island, it is required to have a life jacket when snorkeling. Most tour operators will bring foam life jackets, which are perfectly safe, but truly irritating if you are a free diver. Inflatable jackets are compact, satisfy the regulations, and you can always blow them up if you need a bit of a rest from swimming.

Depending on your interests, you might also want to bring along fishing gear or surfboards as these items are not easy to rent in remote Costa Rica.

For Campers

Since all coastlines (up to 50 meters from the beach) in Costa Rica are public land, it is easy to find a place to camp. Having said that, there are many tourism businesses which have what is called a “concession” to use this land for cabins or shops. They cannot stop you from camping, however we do encourage visitors to pay a small fee (usually $5-10) in order to use the facilities on the property. Remember that the average family income on the Osa is $500 a month and we want to support local business as much as possible.

Of course, we could go on for days about different camping products. If you are traveling for a short time in Costa Rica and planning on doing a bit of light camping, you will of course need a tent and cookware.

For solo travelers, hammock tents are absolutely fantastic because they are compact and lightweight. Not to mention that they will keep you off the often damp and ant-infested ground. Of course, there are all kinds of traditional tents that you could bring along with you. The main thing to look out for when purchasing is that they are very very waterproof.

For cooking gear, you also want a set that is lightweight and durable. Curt has had his set for about 12 years, and we actually even use two of the pieces all the time in the house for soup bowls, cereal bowls and small pots.

For those who want to make a more extended and/or remote camping trip to Costa Rica, there are many other items that you might want to bring in your pack. We plan to release a more extended Tropical Survival Packing blog for interested readers, so stay tuned. Overall, our quick top five list for light camping in Costa Rica would be:

A Note About Product Links: We will never promote products that we have not used personally throughout the 10 years we have been living in the Osa. They pass the tropical torture test and are useful to put in your pack.

The post Packing for Costa Rica- Adventure Gear appeared first on Gringo Curt.

Insect Repellent

One of people’s biggest concerns about visiting the tropics is little stinging creatures. In Costa Rica, there is thankfully no Malaria from mosquitoes, nor Lyme Disease from ticks. However, in some areas, there can be flare ups of Dengue- although it is rare unless you are working in a school or around areas with poor trash management and stagnant water.

The main thing to worry about insect bites in Costa Rica is that it can be very annoying. So, the best way to protect yourself from bites is to use a natural insect repellent or essential oil blend.

Although DEET based repellent is available more readily, it is also considered to pose a risk to your health. Despite the fact that DEET has been declared “relatively safe” by the EPA and CDC, the results are mixed. In other studies, DEET has been linked to testicular cancer, insomnia, muscle cramps, DNA damage, and toxicity in freshwater fish and rivers. It can also eat through plastics and synthetic fabrics- including your waterproof bags.

Is this doesn’t sound like something you want to be putting on your skin, we highly recommend Lemon Eucalyptus, Citronella or Lemongrass essential oil blends. Scientific studies have shown that these oils are as effective and in some cases more effective than DEET, especially when mixed with coconut oil. They are also safe for children over 3, adults and the environment. It is not recommended for children under 3, only due to the risk that they may rub it into their eyes accidentally.

You can purchase pure essential oils, and mix them yourself into reusable spray bottles. Or you can purchase premixed natural repellents. These items can be difficult to find while exploring more remote areas of Costa Rica, so we suggest you bring a good supply with you.

If you are looking for something local to the Osa Peninsula, take a look at Osa Naturals, located in Puerto Jimenez.

Sun Protection

Another major concern for the tropics is Sun exposure. Especially when engaging in activities out on the water such as snorkeling, whale watching, or fishing, a light tan can turn into severe heat stoke very quickly even on cloudy days. Not to mention the risk of skin cancers.

On boat tours, it is a good idea to wear a rash guard, or at the very least, a shirt that covers your shoulders. You will also need a good pair of UVA sunglasses, a hat, and some sunscreen. The more you can cover your skin with UVA protective clothing, the less you will have to rely on sunscreens.

Many people are concerned about the environmental and health impacts of traditional sunscreens. And for good reason.

Although there are other factors involved in coral bleaching, the chemicals in sunscreen leach from your skin into the water and have been shown in 2 major studies to cause coral death. In 2018, Hawaii banned the sale of such sunscreens shortly followed by the small island of Palau. Haereticus Environmental Lab has a published list of chemicals that are harmful to marine and freshwater environments, as well as a list of safe products, which is updated annually.

Another concern with traditional sunscreens is absorption into the bloodstream. A 2019 study found that sunscreens containing avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene or ecamsule were absorbed into the bloodstream at levels that require “a toxicology assessment to see if it causes cancer, birth defects or other adverse effects.”

Further studies are needed in order to confirm or deny health risks, but for those who want to purchase more natural and reef-safe sunscreens we recommend Raw Elements. You can also check out a local Costa Rican brand called Jungle Mama, which is made in Uvita and is also available online. Both are non-nano zinc oxide suncreens, which contain 100% organic ingredients.

Snake and Spider Bites

In the Osa Peninsula, there are 19 species of venomous snakes. We also have several venomous spiders and scorpions. The incidence of tourists being bitten by such creatures is extremely rare. Our two main safety tips around animals are:

If you follow these rules, there is no reason for you to be afraid of these fascinating members of our biodiverse home.

Spider or scorpion bites are painful, but not deadly. The infamous Brazilian Wandering Spider exists here as a much less venomous cousin called the Peruvian Wandering Spider. And our scorpions pale in comparison to the Arizona desert variety.

Having said that, there are areas of Costa Rica outside the Osa, where natural habitats have been degraded, causing snakes and other animals to become more aggressive. Thus, travelers may feel more comfortable by packing a Bite and Sting Kit.

These handy, reusable kits come with a variety of venom “sucker” attachments, and are very effective and easy to use. We keep about 4 in the house and they recently proved very useful when Curt got bitten by a spider in the middle of the night. The pain was gone almost instantly, and it barely left a mark.

Pure Aloe Vera

The tropics are the perfect petri-dish for both bacterial and fungal infections. A small cut can turn into a huge nightmare very quickly. For those who like to use more natural remedies, as opposed to pharmaceuticals, Aloe Vera is an excellent thing to pack.

Not only is it effective for soothing sunburns, but numerous studies have shown it to be both an anti fungal and anti bacterial. Over the years we have found it extremely effective for all kinds of other skin issues ranging from excema to basic bug bites. Processed aloe vera gel is still effective for sunburns, but only the 100% pure variety is useful for fungal, bacterial and skin conditions.

You can purchase pure aloe vera gel, or in Costa Rica you may be lucky enough on stay on a property which grows the plant. To prepare the plant for application to your skin, simply choose a leaf, cut the spines away with a knife or scissors, then cut in half laterally. Rub or squeeze the gel onto the effected area.

A quick note about 100% pure aloe vera is that it should be refrigerated after opening.

Other First Aid

Because pharmaceutical items can be very expensive and difficult to find in remote areas, other items that we always have on hand are:

• bandaids, bandages and medical tape
• tweezers
• Neosporin (or other antibiotic cream)
• diarrhea and constipation remedies
• seasickness tablets (or ginger tea, flavored with honey and lemon, for a natural remedy)
• plenty of your prescription medications including birth control
• antihistamine pills and/or cream
• hydrogen peroxide spray and/or alcohol swabs (for cleaning wounds)

For those staying in Costa Rica for an extended period of time (particularly volunteers in remote areas) we would also suggest bringing: anti parasitic pills, and broad spectrum antibiotics. Of course, depending on how long you are in Costa Rica and your specific health needs, you may not end up using all of these items, but they will make your adventure much more comfortable. The top 5 that we would not leave home without would be:

A Note About Product Links: We will never promote products that we have not used personally throughout the 10 years we have been living in the Osa. They pass the tropical torture test and are useful to put in your pack.

The post Packing for Costa Rica- Natural First Aid appeared first on Gringo Curt.

In Costa Rica, there are numerous certification programs for “eco-tourism” (a term which we don’t really like, but that story will be reserved for another blog). In Drake Bay, the Corcovado Foundation administers a program called “Responsible Marine Tourism”, which promotes many of the most important guidelines for pelagic tours in Costa Rica. All members of the gringocurt.com team have dedicated over a year of full time volunteer work in the Osa Peninsula. This work has given us a deep understanding for why the foundation is essential to maintaining our unique natural environment.

For our whale and dolphin tours and Cano Island tours, we only use guides and operators that have been certified under this program. And we are pleased to promote the following:

Never get between mothers and their calves

As with any animal, this would cause extreme stress to both mother and baby. In fact, it would be very difficult to even do this as whales and dolphins always keep their calves very close to them.

Don’t touch or feed marine wildlife under any circumstances

I once had the dubious honor of confiscating a loaf of bread from a guest who was planning to “feed the fish” at Cano Island. Wild animals are not accustomed to processed foods, and even a touch from our hands can introduce harmful bacteria into the ecosystem.

Never extract shells, rocks or any other organisms

Ecosystems are fragile. Especially marine ones such as reefs. Even a simple souvenir of a long-abandoned shell can cause damage, because you are robbing the environment of the calcium it needs to build corals and mollusc shells. Additionally, seashell removal has been linked to coastal erosion.

A maximum of three boats to a whale and dolphin watching site

This is actually an easy one to follow, as there are very few boat captains who are certified to do the kind of tour that we offer. But certainly, limiting the number of boats in one area is an important aspect of respecting cetaceans and their lifestyle.

Do not follow whales or dolphins at a speed faster than the slowest individual

The 2 main reasons for this important regulation is that “chasing down” whales or dolphins will disturb them; and that it greatly increases the chance of a collision injury. Additionally, if you were to do this, the animals would not be in the mood to play, dramatically reducing the quality of your own experience.

Avoid excessive noise.

While some species of dolphins enjoy whistles and songs from humans, excessive noise from the boat motor and/or splashing noises are far from ideal. This can be avoided by keeping to a respectful distance, speed, and educating tourists to refrain from “belly-flops” into the water when snorkeling at Cano Island.

Approach dolphins and whales diagonally from behind.

Again, this guideline refers to the harmful effects of “chasing down” cetaceans. We never advocate for a boat to approach a pod either head on or directly from behind, as this increases the chance of disturbance and injury to the animals. By approaching the pod from a more obtuse angle, it gives the group a chance to choose if they want to play with us- instead of the other way around.

Keep a respectful distance.

By stopping, or dramatically reducing the speed of the boat, we can approach cetaceans from a respectful distance. This allows us to observe their behavior without disturbing them. As with the previous guideline, it also allows the animals to decide for themselves if they want to play with us by swimming towards the boat.

Don’t throw anchors onto reefs.

Ok, do we need to say anything about this? If you see this anywhere in the world, please report it. In Costa Rica the appropriate authority is MINAE.

Never throw trash into the ocean.

Again, not much explanation needed here. Only to say that on the rare occasion that we do see plastic trash or ropes floating in the sea, we always actively attempt to remove it.

Boats should be equipped with fire extinguishers, life preservers, satellite phones, first aid kits, GPS, compasses, anchors, and an emergency manual.

All our marine tour captains have these features.

Educate guests about responsible marine tourism.

We hope that this blog has educated our past and future guests about responsible marine tourism. We are always happy to answer further questions via email or WhatsApp at any time. Our whale and dolphin adventures are organized with the deepest respect and passion for this spectacular group of species, and we always welcome contributions from biologists and conservationists that would further improve the way in which we conduct our pelagic adventures.

The post Environmentally Responsible Marine Tours appeared first on Gringo Curt.

I wrote in an earlier blog that the YouTube videos I produce are normally created when my friends and/or family visit. The GOPRO video below, was created in August 2018 after a group of friends asked me to impress them with something special. For me, almost everything about Drake Bay is special. However, on this occasion, a humpback whale day was the answer.

Drake Bay’s Humpback Families

Drake Bay has the enviable distinction of having the longest humpback whale season in the world, as we are visited by 2 distinct groups throughout the year. In general, humpbacks migrate to the poles to feed and then to equatorial locations to birth and breed. We host a northern hemisphere group, known as the California humpbacks, from early December to mid-May. And the southern hemisphere group, which is known as the Antarctic humpbacks, from mid-July until the end of December. During December, Drake Bay is the only breeding and birthing location to host members of 2 humpback groups at the same time.

The most obvious visual difference between the two groups is their pectoral fins. The California humpbacks have white only on the bottom of their pectoral fins, while the Antarctic have pectorals that are completely white. The only other visual difference that I am aware of, is their physical size. The southern hemisphere group members are larger and can exceed 18 meters (60 feet) in length and fifty tons. While their cousins in the north are rarely longer than 15 meters (50 feet) and usually less than 40 tons. (1) The Antarctic humpbacks are the largest group left on earth containing over 2,000 individuals. When the Antarctic group is active in Drake Bay, it is normal to experience between 15-20 humpbacks on any given day.

Humpback Whale Breaching Behaviors

Pregnant mothers are normally the first to arrive, and birthing occurs shortly afterwards. Because of this, transient killer whales often arrive at this time to take the opportunity to hunt the newborns, before the remaining humpback reinforcements enter the region. This obviously adds an element of excitement for whale watchers, however due to exhaustion from the long journey, the humpbacks are otherwise not very active at this time. Humpbacks are also less active during the month before migration, as they rest up for the long journey back to the poles.

The months between the first and last on the other hand, are filled with breaching and other distinctive surface behaviors that occur all day and even throughout the night. Humpback mothers normally keep their month or two month old calves very close to shore for protection. During their second month, the babies become very active. They perform the same types of breaching behaviors as adult males, which includes; pectoral slaps, tail slaps, head slaps or lunges, peduncle tossing and spy hopping. Humpbacks do not perform these surface behaviors while on migration routes nor while in feeding waters. With the possible exception of spy hopping, which is when the whale pokes it’s head vertically from the water, with no splash. This behavior is known to be for the purpose of navigation, by way of visually identifying landmarks.

Many have claimed that adult males perform these actions as a form of communication (the loud splashing can be heard from great distances). Or perhaps as a way to attract females, or a way intimidate other males. I have never heard or read anything that supports my belief, but my hypothesis is that adult males and babies do these things for exercise. These various surface activities seem like the perfect exercises to increase an individual’s ability to swim for long distances and at fast speeds. To me, it makes sense that babies need to build muscle mass to endure their first journey to the feeding grounds located at the poles.

It is my personal belief that the adult males are also exercising as part of their breeding rituals. When a female is coming into heat, males come from all around. Females are larger than males and thus they are able to swim faster and with more longevity. When a female is ready, she begins to swim and many males give chase. This is called a heat run. The males literally fight for the chance to breed by crashing into one another in the hope of dominating the race. In some instances, males are actually killed during the high-speed fight. In the end, the female will breed with the male that chases her for the longest time, resulting in the strongest genes being passed on. If males are willing to die for this opportunity, then exercising beforehand seems worth the effort. Especially when considering how many heat runs a male may participate in throughout a breeding season.

I’m not ready to call BBC yet, but I feel very confident that my hypothesis pertaining to the purpose of breaching is more logical than David Attenborough’s suggestion that it is a form of communication. Sir Attenborough has been recorded saying that the breaching may also be a form of attracting females or perhaps intimidating other males.

This species is known to possess language, and can create other sounds that travel much farther than the sounds they could make with a splash. It also makes no sense to me that they would make splashes as an attempt to attract a female when it’s understood that he must still fight and race for her regardless. As far as intimidating other males, I suppose that it would be intimidating if other males were able to perform more impressive exercises because it would logically lead to the presumption that those competitors would have the best chance of being the victors.

Whale Reproduction and Hybrids

Female humpbacks reach sexual maturity at age five, achieving full adult size a little later. Males reach sexual maturity around seven years of age. Females typically breed every two or three years. The gestation period is 11.5 months. The peak months for birth are January and February (northern hemisphere group); and July and August (southern hemisphere group). Females wait for one to two years before breeding again. Recent research on mitochondrial DNA reveals that groups living in proximity to each other may represent distinct breeding pools. Humpback whale births have rarely been observed. One birth witnessed off the coast of Madagascar, took just 4 minutes. Humpback whales have been occasionally known to hybridize with other rorquals, as there is a well-documented report of a humpback-blue whale hybrid in the South Pacific. Humpback whales also appear in mixed groups with other species, such as the blue, fin, minke, gray and sperm whales. (2)

The Famous Humpback Song

Both male and female humpback whales vocalize, but only males produce the long, loud, complex “song” for which the species is famous. The song lasts for 10 to 20 minutes, which is repeated for hours at a time. The California and the Antarctic humpbacks sing a different song from each other, but whales within groups have one song only. However, these songs are not static. Each population’s song is known to evolve over a period of several years, with small changes slowly adding up to more noticeable differences. (3)

Scientists are (as yet) unsure of the purpose of humpback whale songs. It has been observed that singing males are often approached by other males, frequently resulting in conflict. Singing may, therefore, be a challenge to other males. Some scientists have hypothesized the song may serve as an echolocation function. Humpback whales make other sounds to communicate, such as grunts, groans, snorts and barks. (4) They stop singing when they leave the breeding grounds, but continue with their evolving tune when they return. “They resume the song at the same point that they left off.” explains Mark Simmonds, director of science at the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society. (5)

Study of Migrations

Because whale tail identification is a relatively new field in cetacean studies, we have only recently begun to understand the migrating habits of these amazing creatures. In 2007, Kristin Rasmussen from the Cascadia Research Collective in Olympia, Washington came up with some fascinating research related to our humpbacks. The study identified seven individuals wintering off the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, as having traveled from the Antarctic around 8,300 km (5,200 mi) away. Identified by their unique tail patterns, these animals had made the longest documented mammalian migration. Seven animals were photographed in both locations and a mother and calf pair were seen in Antarctic waters 161 days after they had been spotted in Costa Rica, having traveled 5,266 miles.

In all cases, the animals were choosing water temperatures of around 24-25C. The whales she studied off the coast of South America would have to continue beyond the equator to find water this warm. Ms Rasmussen believes that a high enough water temperature is crucial for them to breed. “It’s likely that being in warm water is somehow beneficial to the calf,” she said. (6)

Whale Watching in Drake Bay

During migration, humpbacks know where they are based on their visual recognition of shoreline landmarks. For this reason, the species is normally found within 20 miles of the coast, making them easy to spot even while relaxing on one of our many Drake Bay beaches. Adult males are normally father from shore, and rarely interested in humans. Calves on the other hand, are often very curious and it’s sometimes possible to swim from shore to meet them. Having said that, you increase your odds enormously by participating in a whale watching trip by boat.

During the month that my friends visited in 2018, the humpback whales were everywhere and very active. At this time of year, even Cano Island or Corcovado National Park tours often encounter humpback whales along the way. Tours like this however, observe the whales for a short time- continuing along to the tours primary objective. Dedicated whale watching tours have the unique opportunity to spend a comprehensive amount of time with the cetaceans encountered.

Another advantage is that there are some distinct humpback “hotspots” that are not en route to either Cano Island or Corcovado. On this particular day, we had the opportunity to visit a reef known as “Paraiso” (paradise). As you can see from the video below, I certainly met my goal of showing them something special and they told me that the experience surpassed their expectations.

References
1) “Humpback Whales”, Costa Rica Guide, https://costa-rica-guide.com/nature/wildlife/humpback-whales/
2) “Humpback Whale”, Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humpback_whale
3) “Humpback Whale”, Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humpback_whale
4) “Humpback Whale”, Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humpback_whale
5) “The Tale of the Whale”, The Guardian, https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2007/apr/11/guardianweekly.guardianweekly11
5) “The Tale of the Whale”, The Guardian, https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2007/apr/11/guardianweekly.guardianweekly11

The post The Best Place for Whale Watching in Costa Rica appeared first on Gringo Curt.

After the experiences of False Killer Whales and Pilot Whales swimming with us, we continued heading towards the deep and eventually about 5 miles beyond the Middle American Trench we found our captain’s primary objective, Spinner Dolphins!

Our Spinner Dolphin experience began when we boated up towards thousands of Pink-footed Shearwater birds that were resting and floating around. Beyond the shearwaters we could see thousands of Spinner Dolphins fishing with thousands of Boobies and Magnificent Frigate birds.

As we boated through the masses of resting shearwaters they frantically flew in all directions. We saw Magnificent Frigate Birds “dog-fighting” the Boobies, with the goal of stealing their freshly caught fish. We noticed an unbelievably large shoal of sardines that had risen to the surface with the purpose of spawning. We call this a baitball or a shoal of sardines and sometimes lantern fish.

Central American Spinner Dolphins fish and feed utilizing the skills of other species. They always have giant groups of Yellow-fin Tuna following close behind. Where the spinners go, the tuna go. If the spinner’s pod breaks into smaller groups, then the tuna do as well. I speculate that the ancestors of these tuna have been fishing with the ancestors of these spinner dolphins for millions of years. I question if these tuna would even be able to catch food without this pod of dolphins to rely on.

This dynamic duos fishing tactics are incomplete without the various species of booby birds that enter the equation whenever they notice that dolphins have found a baitball. The spinner dolphin’s tactical responsibility is to keep the baitfish from returning to the depths below and to keep the shoal tightly grouped. The birds drop from the sky, diving into the shoal, disrupting the baitfish and causing them to break from the uniform movements of the group. This disruption triggers the dolphins to take advantage- darting around and gobbling up the confused fish that scatter from the attacking boobies.

Big shoals are more difficult to control, and this is where the Yellow-fin Tuna come into the strategy. They line themselves below the center of the shoal and then shoot upward (at speeds of up to 60 miles per hour in a stampede-like fashion) gobbling up sardines just before their momentum shoots them out of the water. Upon re-entry they quickly return to formation to continuing their portion of the cyclical process. The tuna’s stampeding action effectively causes the bait fish to divide into two groups. The 2 smaller shoals become more manageable and the success of the hunt increases. This sequence happens again and again until either the food supply runs out or the predators are full.

Occasionally, sharks and other marine predators join the feast, but they have no known function of enhancing the dolphin’s fishing strategy. On this particular day, we were lucky enough to also encounter Manta Rays.

My cousin’s 6 year old daughter, Ava, chose to hold my hand during this part of the adventure. She was timid to say the least, but she said that she had to force herself to be brave because she had already missed out on snorkeling with the pilots and false killers. I assured her that everything would be fine, we picked a shoal to swim up on and we entered the arena.

The view from below the water immediately startled Ava. There was so much going on that it took a moment for her to let our situation sink in. Swimming deeper into the shoal seemed to calm Ava because she realized that nothing was going to touch her. The sardines are comfortable swimming around people, but they swim at such impressive speeds that it would be impossible to touch one. After the boobies complete their impressive 60 mph (100 kph) dives, deep into the shoal, they resemble penguins swimming around frantically gobbling up as many little fish as they can get into their mouths. Their excellent eyesight means that there is no chance of them accidentally crashing into a human. We saw that dolphins were swimming down below and as Ava finally seemed to be at ease, 3 giant manta rays then swam through our shoal.

When Manta Rays enter a shoal, they take in a mouthful of fish, they somehow grind them all up and eject the scales rectally. The process appears to be almost instantaneous, as speckles of shiny scales seem to pour from their anus during consumption while they continue to dart through the shoal. It looks like fairy dust. Manta Rays can be up to 7 meters wide and Ava had never imagined experiencing something so big and so close. At that point, she had used up her bravery and we promptly hopped back into the boat. Although Manta Rays are not dangerous to humans in the least, I can understand a certain level of nervousness, even as an adult, let alone as a 6 year old child. She was proud of herself for getting in and couldn’t stop talking about the giant mantas throughout the rest of the family visit.

The Central American Spinner Dolphins usually reside within a hundred square mile vicinity off the coast of Drake Bay. They are essentially one mega-pod, that is known as the largest of group of resident dolphins on earth. They total 10,000 strong and are often broken into smaller groups of 2-3 thousand in the search for rising shoals. Few that visit Costa Rica know of their existence, yet you’ll see footage of them in some of the most popular oceanic nature documentaries, namely; “Blue Planet 1 & 2” and “Oceans”. The captain that we most commonly use has lead group trips for BBC, Disney, and for two weeks, hosted Paul Watson from the “Sea Shepherd” organization. Spoiler alert, BBC will again be showing more footage of our spinners when it debuts “Blue Planet 3” coming soon.

The offshore experience described in this and 2 previous blogs, is an 8 hour adventure. It sounds like a long time, but we have never had someone that felt like they were finished playing with spinners. I’ve enjoyed this experience more times than I can count and even I get frustrated when the clock tells me that it’s time to start heading back. I normally try to raise spirits by reminding everyone that we have lots of ocean to explore while en route for land. Who knows what we still have waiting ahead?

On this adventure, we had little time to stop on the way back but we did slow down for a few sea turtles and a pod of Pantropical Spotted Dolphins. The family members that came along for this boat ride never again questioned why I moved to Drake Bay.

If you would like us to schedule your Drake Bay pelagic adventure, please visit our What to Do in Drake Bay pages and contact us.

The post Fishing Techniques of Offshore Spinner Dolphins appeared first on Gringo Curt.

We were heading towards the deep for only about 15-20 minutes more, when approximately 30 large dorsal fins were spotted way off in the distance. As they quickly came closer, we recognized how large the group actually was and, before we knew it, they were all around us. 100+ Short-finned Pilot Whales.

When watching the attached video, understand that I was swimming as fast as I could possibly swim. Yet you’ll notice how little effort the Pilot Whales seem to use. Adult Pilot Whales are 7 meters long, have bulging muscles, and giant teeth, evolved for the purpose of ripping flesh apart.

I like to experience the oceans surrounding Drake Bay as often as possible, and I have only seen Pilot Whales on only one other occasion. Pilot Whales are residents, yet they are generally a very rare sighting because they normally stay further offshore. Practically all oceanic tours in Drake Bay experience the shallower waters, so few people have the opportunity to see deep ocean creatures.

The Middle American Trench is approximately 30 miles offshore or 15 miles beyond Cano Island. There, the depth of the ocean drops, in a cliff-like fashion, from 300 feet deep to 2,000 feet deep. We discovered the Pilot Whales in only a couple of hundred feet of water and still about 10 miles away from the trench. I remember discussing with the boat captain that something must be going on to cause them to travel so unusually close to shore.

Pilot Whales have a specialized ability to rapidly descend to great depths in high pursuit of squid. On the side, they also eat large fish such as Tuna and Mahi Mahi. The plentiful squid hunts keep Pilot Whales in deep waters so it it may be reasonable to assume that a school of large fish may have attracted them to Cano Island that day.

Like the False Killer Whales, Pilot Whales have never attacked a human in the wild. Thus, I have been told not to fear them. That seemed easier said than done, until I actually entered the water. Similarly to the False Killer Whale experience, I had an immediate feeling of calmness and safety. These enormous creatures were swimming behind me, beside me and even more of them were up ahead. I somehow never felt fear. The Pilot Whales seemed to slow down and maneuver themselves alongside me. I could see in their eyes that they were as inquisitive as I. But in this instance, they definitely had a destination in mind, and stopping to hang out with me was not among their interests. I swam for as long as I could and eventually they became shadowy shapes disappearing into the distance.

I cannot imagine the thought of people hunting these terrific animals but unfortunately it does occur. The extremely high levels of Mercury make it difficult to understand why humans go through the effort. The United Nations legal limit of Mercury is 1 microgram, per gram, per day. Pilot Whale meat is 2 micrograms per gram. Let’s try to visualize this. 350 grams is a normal dinner sized portion of meat. If a person were to observe the U.N. legal limits, then a normal portion of Pilot Whale meat could only be consumed evenly over a 100 day period. If empathy and curiosity are not enough to discontinue the act of killing these widely unstudied creatures, then shouldn’t it be enough that it’s clearly not sensible to continue eating something after science tells us that it’s poison?

Short-finned Pilot Whales are usually found in groups of 100 or more, and have complex societies. Like Killer Whales and Bonobos, Pilot Whale societies are matriarchal. The males roam from pod to pod, while the females rule over the families and never leave the pod that they were born in. Mothers nurse their young for up to 5 years. David Attenborough stated that the bond between these mothers and calves is the strongest bond of any animal species. Males have a life expectancy of 45 years while females live for around 60. Females enter menopause when they reach 40 and these elder females take on the roles of assisting less experienced mothers in raising their young.

As the Pilot Whales swam off, I thought about how lucky my family’s experience was, and that we must quickly start heading deep or I would never get a chance to show them the Spinner Dolphins.

Next Episode Coming on Thursday 23rd May, 2019!

If you would like us to schedule your Drake Bay pelagic adventure, please visit our What to Do in Drake Bay pages and contact us.

The post Don’t Eat Pilot Whales appeared first on Gringo Curt.

Personally, I think this creature has one of the worst names ever given (see the title of this blog). The name apparently originated from the similarities in skull shape, and in 1846 they were described as close cousins of Orcas. It is known that their closest living relatives are in fact; Risso’s Dolphin, Melon-headed Whales, Pygmy Killer Whales and Pilot Whales.

I find it fascinating that dolphin species are more accurately described as dolphin races- due to the vast number of recorded sightings of hybrids. I have personally seen spotted-bottlenose and bottlenose-spinner dolphins. Of all known hybrids, the bottlenose-false killer whale seems to me the most extreme. False killer Whales are almost double the size of bottlenose and their family origins are so distant, yet they still have enough in common to produce offspring. I have not personally seen this hybrid (yet!) but I have seen adult Bottlenose and False Killer Whales swimming together in groups. In Drake Bay, we normally see pods of False Killer Whales of 20-30. But I have also seen them in groups as large as 100.

False killer Whales behave similarly to cats when it comes to training their babies how to hunt. In order to teach a juvenile, the mother gradually provides opportunities for the juvenile to finish kills. First she’ll bring things that are almost completely dead. When the calf reaches the end stages of education, the mother will provide food that is barely injured at all. Upon graduation, the juvenile can hunt and kill its food without aid. It is a somewhat vicious version of playing with your food. One often finds oneself feeling bad for the food and the torture it endures so that mothers can train their juvenile assassins.

False killer Whales hunt in packs. Often swimming side by side, spanning from the coastline to the deeper waters. When the pods are large, they may also swim in rows. If the first wall of False Killer Whales didn’t find the prey, then the next row will get the chance, then the next row, and so on. A False Killer Whale will attack its prey by biting and thrashing until the animal is dead. If the prey is large then multiple False Killer Whales work together when attacking. They will often leave the lifeless bodies of their victims while taking the chance to attack other opportunistic animals that are also in the vicinity. Once the area has been disturbed and the living prey have vanished, the False Killer Whales quickly return to eat the floating mangled bodies that were previously left behind.

Some of these victim species include squid and large fish such as Mahi Mahi, Tuna and Roosterfish. Here in the Eastern Pacific, False Killer Whales have also been recorded attacking species of dolphins, sperm whales and baby humpbacks. Although false killer whales are obviously a formidable predator, they are not apex. Coastal and offshore killer whales are both known to eat false killers.

It seems a bit insane to get into the water with these 6 meter long nightmarish creatures with gigantic teeth, and people often question why I choose to put myself in such danger. I have searched for instances of False Killer Whales attacking humans and I have found no reason for fear. I do not know why they have not attacked humans, but my confidence in my decision grows with each experience. Humans naturally have a lower body fat percentage than a False Killer Whale’s normal prey. Maybe that is why they don’t bother with us. Maybe it’s because their mothers never taught them how to hunt us, and thus, they do not think of us as food. Regardless of the true answer, I feel more and more certain that they won’t attack me because if they haven’t taken advantage during the many opportunities that I’ve given them, then they probably never will.

I have enjoyed many instances of floating around on the ocean’s surface, snorkeling and watching these enormous creatures as they swim around studying me. On one occasion I was tucked into the fetal position and a False Killer Whale pushed me up out of the water 3 times using the melon part of its head. Their overall curiosity and studious nature is evident because so many of them have stopped to spend a few minutes with me. During all of my meetings with false killer whales I have experienced a sort of safe feeling that they seem to be transmitting. I have felt this with numerous species of cetacean, but the False Killer Whales provide me with the most relief when transmitting this signal. Although it occurs to me as I write this, that they may be using it as a method of calming their prey!

My family got their first sense of what I get to experience in this natural paradise and we had only just reached Cano Island. The day still wasn’t over. Our next encounter was with Pilot Whales and I’ll write about them in the blog to come.

Next Episode Coming on Thursday 16th May, 2019!

If you would like us to schedule your Drake Bay pelagic adventure, please visit our What to Do in Drake Bay pages and contact us.

The post If They’re Not Killer Whales, What Are They? appeared first on Gringo Curt.

I have accumulated oceanic experiences so unbelievable, that over time, even I sometimes find myself wondering if I am embellishing the stories. Then in January of 2017, I was given a GOPRO video camera by visiting family members. My GOPRO videos are now always available as a constant reminder of how real these incredible experiences actually were. Unfortunately, the GOPRO has now gone into the bin- the latest in a long line of tropical climate technology victims.

Luckily, I received lots of friend and family visits during my short GOPRO era so the videos piled up faster than I could find time to edit them. My last GOPRO experience was of 7 humpback whales swimming around me while I repeatedly banged on the power button to no avail. Since then I have had time to edit some of my stock pile.
During our offshore adventure days, we have found mega-pods of Central American Spinner Dolphins on 80% of trips. By itself, the spinner dolphin experience marks a day that most will never forget and are always our primary goal. The secondary goal that I have on offshore outings is a combination of hope and wonder as to which other creatures will also be experienced along the way.

There are so many rare species in this patch of ocean, that seeing rare things is actually common. What we call “spinner land” is roughly 30 miles offshore, and thus, on these trips we cover a lot of area, passing numerous ecosystems along the way. Different types of resident and migratory animals live off them all.

There are instances when I find clues or tips about the location of a specific species, but generally we cannot know what we will experience before we ship off. Every offshore adventure is different. As my blogs begin to add up, I expect that readers will better understand the diversity of our surrounding oceanic ecosystems and how the various cetacean lives are linked to those environments.

I have found so many new interests while living on the Osa Peninsula because biodiverse plant, fungus, and animal ecosystems are literally all around me. I want this blog to focus on cetacea. I want to organize those experiences above all others because, to me, they are the most amazing. I have had so many different and rare species swimming around me and I want to write about these experiences as a sort of personal memory archive.

I hope that you will also enjoy my stories and will be encouraged to learn more about these fascinating creatures.

If you would like us to schedule your Drake Bay pelagic adventure, please visit or What to Do in Drake Bay pages and contact us.

The post Why Whales and Dolphins? appeared first on Gringo Curt.

Snorkeling

For snorkelers, it is hard to go past San Josecito Beach and Bliss Beach. Located along the public “Beach Hike” trail, between Drake Bay and Corcovado National Park; these beaches contain many rock structures and corals where you can experience a huge variety of marine life. Check the tide times, as high slack tide is the best time to jump in. It is also extremely important that you do not touch or remove anything from these delicate ecosystems. And absolutely no feeding the fish!

Surfing and Sea Turtles

Punta Rio Claro is one of the best breaks in Costa Rica. Although it is by no means a learners beach, experienced surfers can generally rent boards here. This little beach is also home to a tiny sea turtle project, run by Ricardo- a local who has spent several decades in the wilderness saving these amazing creatures from poaching and predation. If you do visit this beach, we ask that you purchase a coffee, snack or make a small donation to this worthy cause.

On the other side of the peninsula, Carate and Rio Oro are two long, pristine, sandy beaches that also happen to be the most important sea turtle nesting beaches in Costa Rica. If you wish to visit these projects to volunteer or take a turtle tour, you can take a look at our adventure packages page, or contact the local association directly.

Whale Watching

Playa Rincon, located at the very end of the drive-able road from Drake Bay towards Corcovado, is the best place in the region for spotting whales and dolphins from shore. Try August to November for your best chance of Humpback Whales breaching. You can also visit Poor Man’s Paradise, a locally owned lodge, that can provide you with a cold beer in the middle of nowhere! What could be better than that?

Swimming

Due to the dramatic and beautiful volcanic rocks lining the pacific coast of the peninsula, there are actually not too many beaches where a relaxing dip is recommend. Playa Caletas, located around 1 hour walk from Drake Bay center, is an exception. Due to the rocky point on the Southern end of the beach, you are protected from the northerly flowing current, and the larger waves carried with it, that can be a problem at other beaches in the region. You are also just a short swim or walk away from Bliss Beach, where excellent snorkeling can be found.

Nudists?!

You probably wouldn’t think of Costa Rica for nudist beaches. But around Drake Bay, there are two spots that are known for nakedness. Mainly due to the fact that you are unlikely to see another human. Playa Danta and Playa de Amor, are perfect spots to let it all hang loose, or, according to local legend, conceive a child! (As long as you don’t mind the occasional passing boat of course!)

So to count them down, our top hidden beaches in Costa Rica, in no particular order.
1) San Josecito
2) Bliss Beach
3) Rio Claro
4) Rio Oro & Carate
5) Playa Rincon
6) Caletas
7) Playa Danta
8) Playa de Amor

Take a look at our interactive map for the exact locations, and read more on our Beach Hike page.

The post The Best Hidden Beaches of Costa Rica appeared first on Gringo Curt.

So, let’s break down the seasons of Costa Rica in more detail and let you decide when your vacation should be- instead of letting Lonely Planet do it for you.

Birders

If you are avid bird watchers like us, you might find the “low” season a more interesting time of year. In May and June for example, we see many species of birds after they have finished breeding, so the chances of seeing juveniles and family groups is much higher. Want to see a baby Heron or Aricari? May and June might by the months for you.

If Migratory birds are your thing, July-October is your best bet. We are visited by many different species of warblers, tanagers and orioles during these months. Between Novemeber and February is the best time for those who really need to cross Tucans off their list. In the Osa Peninsula the Black-mandible Toucan can be found in many gardens and forest edges during this time of year, as they forage and pair up for breeding season.

Not too Many People Please!

If you are the type of traveler that loves to go where the action is not- try May in Drake Bay. The Osa Peninsula is by far the least touristy of Costa Rican destinations. But May has the advantage of being the second lowest month (after October), without the increased chance of tropical storms. Just do us one favor- don’t ask the locals for discounts- the only thing that gets lower in low season is the amount of tourists, not the price of eggs.

Whale and Dolphin “Season”

Drake Bay is by far the best place in Costa Rica to encounter marine mammals. What people are mostly asking when they ask about Whale Season in Drake Bay, is Humpbacks. In reality, there are only 2 months out of the year when it is unlikely to find Humpbacks in the bay, May 15 to July 15. At all other times of year you can encounter breeding pairs and babies. The peak of the year is September to November, when the largest family of Humpback Whales on earth is the most active.

As for other types of marine mammals, Drake Bay has 25 species of resident or visiting whales and dolphins. 3 of which can be found in MegaPods, all year round. On Whale and Dolphin Adventures we have personally encountered- Bottlenose, Central American Spinners, Pantropical Spotted Dolphins, False Killer Whales, Short-finned Pilot Whales, Orcas, Short-beaked Common Dolphins, Rough-toothed dolphins, and Sei Whales… and many more. Take a look at some of our videos for inspiration.

Fishing

Drake Bay is home to some of the best world-class fishing in Costa Rica. Between the months of November and March, you will have an excellent chance of reeling in species such as Blue Marlin, Black Marlin, Sailfish, Dorado (Mahi Mahi) and Wahoo. Many different species of Snapper and also Roosterfish are there for the taking all year apart from September and October. For Yellowfin Tuna, the best months are June-August and also December and January. Overall, we would recommend avoiding fishing in Drake Bay from September 15 to October 15, as there is a high chance of tropical storms, making the water close to shore very murky, and offshore fishing charters somewhat bumpy!

Take a look at this excellent guide by Costa Rican Vacations for more information.

Sea Turtle Projects

Costa Rica is famous for sea turtle conservation. In the Osa Peninsula alone, there are upwards of 6 sea turtle projects, on some of the most pristine beaches in the country. If you are interested in volunteering for this worthy cause, or taking a sea turtle tour, the best months to visit are from August to November. During these months it is possible to see both nesting mothers and turtle hatchlings. Of the 7 species of sea turtle worldwide, the Osa Peninsula is visited by Olive Ridley, Green Turtles, Hawkbills and even the occasional Leatherback. Cano Island snorkeling or diving tours, and whale and dolphin pelagic tours are also an excellent opportunity to encounter turtles. We have even seen Olive Ridleys and Green Turtles mating!

As you can probably figure out by now, there are very few times of year we would not recommend for your vacation in Costa Rica. The exception? March. The driest, hottest, dustiest month in Drake Bay. If you come to Drake Bay in March, make sure you choose a hotel that is located away from the road and/or has a nice sea breeze. To book your trip to Drake Bay, take a look at our adventure packages page for custom itineraries and our local travel agent services.

The post What Time of Year Should I Visit Costa Rica? appeared first on Gringo Curt.

In the last few weeks we have been making some changes to our website. We wanted to make our site a one-stop-shop where all different types of travelers can access the best prices in Drake Bay, exclusive tours and activities, and a range of new and improved services.

New Adventure Packages
Not only will you be able to book individual tours and activities through our site, you will also be able to reserve complete packages including personalized hotel reservations and transfers. As always, because we are not tied to one specific hotel or tour operator, you can be sure that we are choosing the best package for you.

Improved Communication
Many of our customers have expressed that it is often difficult to get a response from hotels and tour operators in Drake Bay. We want to help local businesses, by focusing our attention on your questions and letting guides and hoteliers focus on what they do best! We guarantee to answer all queries within 24 hours.

Best Prices, No Commissions
Our new pricing structure means that we do not need to accept commissions for our packages, hotel reservations, or exclusive tours. We simply incorporate a flat fee for our services, regardless of the number of people. This means that we can support local businesses by keeping more money in their pockets. It also means that we can offer you the best prices in Drake Bay. Look for the Exclusive Adventure and Commission Free labels on our tours and activities page.

Full Service Local Travel Agency
We have added new services to our repertoire. Travelers can make hotel reservations and restaurant reservations; book taxis or boat transfers; organize private shuttles; and reserve domestic flights. We will also meet you at your hotel upon your arrival in Drake Bay to ensure that you are ready for your adventure. We want you to be able to have a truly personal service and a stress-free holiday.

New Tours and Activities
Based on our new experiences over the past year, we have added even more activities to our list. Our Sunset Cano Island and Whale and Dolphin tour has been a big hit; and we have new ways to experience the Rio Claro Kayaking Waterfall Adventure. We have also found a spectacular new horseback riding trip that is honestly one of our favorite things to do in Drake Bay right now. Look for the New Adventure label on our tours and activities page.

Whale and Dolphin Stories and Gringo Curt Approved Recipes.
We will be adding new categories to our blog. Curt will be writing detailed stories of his experiences on Whale and Dolphin tours, for all those marine mammal junkies out there. We will also be releasing some of our recipes for those who want to self-cater in Drake Bay using locally available ingredients.

We are looking forward to helping you with your dream trip to Drake Bay. Stay tuned for our new TripAdvisor listing, under the Tours and Attractions section. We hope to read all your feedback about our new services very soon.

See you in Paradise!

The post What’s Happening With Gringo Curt’s? appeared first on Gringo Curt.

While these activities are certainly worth experiencing, at Gringo Curt’s, we think that you could easily spend two weeks in Drake Bay and still find things that you didn’t have time for! You don’t have to spend money on tours everyday either. There are plenty of free or independent adventures you can have. If you are interested in the natural world, there is literally nowhere else in Costa Rica that compares.

The best place to see whales and dolphins? The best snorkeling spots in Costa Rica? One of the best national parks in the world? The most pristine beaches in Costa Rica? The highest number of bird species in the country? The best sport fishing charters? The largest unspoiled mangrove forest in Central America? The most primary forest to explore? Waterfalls? Horseback riding? Canopy tours? Night tours? Sea turtle projects?

You guessed it, the answer to all of these questions is- Drake Bay.

So, why the 3 day rule? From my experience, there seem to be two main reasons.

The first is what I would refer to as “backpacker attitude”. When people plan their trips to Costa Rica, they want to “check off” as many places as possible. When I was younger, I was also a victim of this travel mentality- gallivanting through Europe at breakneck speed and spending half my time on epic bus journeys. In Costa Rica, the notoriously bad public transport system just compounds this problem and you end up needing a vacation from your vacation.

The second reason has to do with Drake Bay hotels. To take a recent example, when my aunt and uncle were planning a visit to Drake Bay, they booked a hotel for 2 weeks. The hotel manager actually told them that they would get bored! The truth is, that people in Drake Bay receive the largest commissions on two main tours- Corcovado National Park and Cano Island. After that, tourists start to discover free activities and tours that don’t offer commissions.

It’s not that anyone in Drake Bay is trying to rip you off. Tours are the same price, whether you choose to book with your hotel or directly with an operator. The thing is, that Corcovado National Park and Cano Island are virtually customer satisfaction guaranteed. The tour guides are great, the wildlife spotting opportunities are amazing. The hotel can just shift people in and out of Drake Bay on a 3 day rotation without much thought. They make some cash, you get your Tapir picture. Everyone’s happy.

But what about if you take another approach?

When you are planning your trip to Costa Rica, think of it like the “slow food” movement. Change your checklist to quality not quantity of destinations. Think about what you want to experience, not where you want to experience it. Once you get that checklist together, 3 days in Drake Bay will not be enough.

Compare our sample itineraries for inspiration, and just think, you’ll still get your Tapir picture- you’ll just spend a lot less time on the bus!

By Charlotte

The post How Much Time Should You Spend in Drake Bay? appeared first on Gringo Curt.

In this update as of October 2019, we wanted to break down all the regulations, why they are important, and where your money goes when you book a trip to Corcovado.

1) You must have a local guide

Since 2014, it has been mandatory to have a local guide in Corcovado. Other national parks such as Manuel Antonio allow visitors to explore on their own. But there is an important difference. The trails of Manuel Antonio and other wildlife refuges such as Gandoca Manzanillo are wide, short, and well-marked. In Corcovado, it is literally a jungle out there.

While Manuel Antonio National Park is just 683 hectares, Corcovado encompasses the vast majority of the Osa Pensinsula. A whopping 42,400 hectares. Also unlike most of the national parks in the country, Corcovado is not directly accessible by road.

Essentially, getting lost is a real possibility. In fact, the last time that this happened was in July of 2014, when a 27 year old man from Alaska entered the park on his own and was never found again.

We support this regulation, not only due to safety, but also because having a local guide will greatly enhance your experience of the park. They know how to find the wildlife and they have genuine information about the species you will encounter, after decades of growing up in the jungle.

2) Corcovado has a maximum number of visitors per day.

Again, unlike most National Parks in Costa Rica, Corcovado requires you to have a pre-paid entrance pass. You cannot buy a ticket at any of the rangers stations, nor can you hire a guide there. All of this has to be done in advance.

The main reason for this, is that there are strict limits on the number of people that can be in the park on any given day. This is the breakdown:

This regulation is important because we need to limit the impact of tourism on the spectacular biodiversity of the region. If anyone could wander in at any time, there would be no way to know if people were being respectful of the environment. Over the years, this rule has reduced trash and the general impact of foot traffic in the park. What’s better for the animals is better for your park experience.

3) You must pay in advance for entrance, food and accommodation.

You may book and pay up to 3 months before the date of entrance. Due to the limited number of people per day, it is recommended to book as soon as possible for high season (Dec-March). The process for booking an entrance pass to Corcovado is the same for tour operators as it would be for individual travelers if they chose to do it themselves. And the price is the same. Here is how we do it:

1) Email or visit the Corcovado office in Puerto Jimenez and request a reservation for a specific day, with a specific number of people, plus your guide
2) They will email or give you an invoice with the amount of money you need to pay.
3) You will then have to deposit that amount of money into the Corcovado National Park bank account (Banco Nacional) either in person in the bank, or by transferring from another Banco Nacional account. You may not use an international bank account nor credit card.
4) Provide the deposit receipt either in person or via email. At this point the office will provide you with your entrance passes.
5) Print it out. You cannot show passes on phones or other digital devices. Paper print outs are the only format accepted when you arrive in the park.
6) If you are doing an overnight trip in Sirena, you need to do this process all over again with a different office, in order to reserve your accommodation and food.

Note that there are no banks, nor printing places in Drake Bay. The closest ones are in Palmar Norte or Puerto Jimenez. Also note that these payments are not refundable nor transferable for any reason.

Of course, this sounds like a massive pain. This is why you will find the vast majority of travelers reserving Corcovado tours through their hotel or travel agency. That way, you get to reserve your entrance pass, tour guide, transportation and food, all at the same time.

From Drake Bay, Corcovado tours are priced as follows:

4) Camping and Food

In 2016, Sirena Ranger’s Station was taken over by a local association, which renovated the facilities. They no longer allow camping, and accommodation is in dormitory-style bunks. It is not permitted to bring your own food to Sirena, as there was ongoing concern about trash. Sirena Restaurant provides all meas for overnight trips and tour operators provide the lunches for day trips.

At San Pedrillo, the accommodation is camping only. There is a covered platform where you can set up your tent, shared toilets, showers and change rooms. There are no cooking facilities, but you can arrange with your tour operator to bring pre-packed food and a small camping stove. You can bring your own food to San Pedrillo, but we urge you to coordinate with your tour operator in order to reduce waste and single use plastics. Operators can also provide tents and other camping equipment.

5) Where does your money go?

Entrance passes: $15 per person per day.
Guide Entrance Pass: $6 per day.
Guide Fee: $100 per day.
Boat from Drake: $50 per person round trip. (not a public boat, must be booked in advance)
Picnic Lunch on Day Trip: $8-10 per person
Accommodation at Sirena: $30 per person per night, plus $5 for guide accommodation.
Meals at Sirena: $70 per person per day, plus $22 for guide meals.
Camping at San Pedrillo: $4 per person per day, plus $4 for guide accommodation.
Food at San Pedrillo: Approx $30 per per day for pre-packed meals.

These prices are set by either the Ministry of Environment or the local guiding association, so everyone faces the same costs. Small discounts are available for Nationals ($10 off entrance) and children under 12 (half price food at Sirena).

As you can see, none of this factors in any profit for the operator or agency. On our website, we charge the same as any other operator for Day Trips, and we take a flat fee of $100 for packages up to 6 people. Some operators may add a fee per person, instead of a flat fee. This money helps us to visit the bank (2 hours away) when we need to book your passes and also to pay our internet bill so we can get back to you as quickly as possible.

This pricing structure is similar to any other operation in Drake Bay. We support all of our local tour guides and operators. We work hard together to help you have a great experience in Corcovado National Park, for the lowest price possible.

Take a look at our Corcovado Tours Page to read about the spectacular biodiversity in Corcovado National Park, and find the best option for your adventure. Contact us to reserve your trip, or to ask any questions at all about this amazing experience.

The post Corcovado National Park: Regulations Explained appeared first on Gringo Curt.